EVGT-40 Attends Gold Coast EAA Meeting

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin July 10th, 2010

Got to take the car out on it’s first public outing today. I was asked to give a presentation at the Gold Coast Electric Auto Association. The meeting was only about ten miles from my house but it was the farthest it’s been from home so far.

It was a nice drive to downtown Boca Raton and the car performed well. It got a lot of looks on the short trip. This is a complement in a town that typically has a lot of exotic cars.

It was a real honor to present my car to the guys at the club. A few of the guys there have their own converted cars so they understood what it took to build this one. Though they had been hearing about it from me for two years and a lot of them have been a big help in giving me encouragement and assisting with lots of questions, none of them had yet seen the final product.

Interior finishes

interior | Posted by admin June 15th, 2010

Finishing the interior has really been fun and rewarding. I get to see it all come together and look like a real luxury sports car. The one thing I do wish I had was an air conditioned garage to do this in. Since it’s now June, Florida days get up in the 90’s and lots of humidity. I keep a stack of t-shirts in the garage to change into as each one gets soaked. Working inside the small interior of the EV GT-40 is tough.

Just so we remember were it all started from 2 years ago.

Interior finishing

interior | Posted by admin May 21st, 2010

The entire interior is first covered with a foil and rubber sound/thermal product called Zillamat. This really improved the sound in the car.

The interior is then covered with carpet which is glued in place with 3M contact adhesive. The finished product looks real nice.

Battery Balancers

Electronics | Posted by admin May 12th, 2010

Lee Hart’s Shunt Type Battery Balancer
12 V Version -
From http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatteryManagementSystems.html

Each battery has a regulator which consists of

2 – ring terminals, with hole for 5/16″ bolt, and crimp for #6 wire
2 – 6.8v 5watt zener diodes
2 – #PR2 flashlight bulb
Solder a zener diode into each ring terminal where the wire normally goes. Solder a 6″ piece of wire to the other end of the zener diode. Solder the flashlight bulb between the free ends of these two wires. Now you have the two zeners and flashlight bulb all wired in series.

Lee added on 8/09 – Since there are two zeners in series, and they have a 5% tolerance, I measure their actual zener voltage, and match them up in pairs with the same total. I have a bench power supply with knobs to set the voltage limit and current limit. I set the current limit to some value like 100ma, and set the voltage limit higher than the zener voltage (like 10v for a 6.8v zener). Connect the zener, and the power supply automatically supplies a fixed 100ma. Measure the voltage across each zener. Sort them into bins (6.5v 6.6v 6.7v 6.8v 6.9v 7.0v 7.1v). Use pairs that add up to the same total
6.5v + 7.1v = 13.6v
6.6v + 7.0v = 13.6v
6.7v + 6.9v = 13.6v
6.8v + 6.8v = 13.6v
Fill the space between the zener and ring terminal with epoxy glue. Likewise, dunk the bulb and its wires in epoxy glue. This makes everything waterproof and acid proof, and helps conduct heat. The zeners get their heatsinking from the large ring terminals and battery posts they are bolted to.

The diodes are all sorted based on the voltages.

The bulb is soldered to the wire and the lead of the diode.


The whole thing is wrapped in heat shrink tubing.  Each end is the same except the diode is reversed.  The positive ends are marked with a red marker.

One of these is made for each battery.

As the pack charges the lights slowly begin to light up on the batteries that reach capacity.  This shunts about a half an amp around that battery to the next which helps to balance the batteries out.  Each time you charge the pack the batteries should get closer and closer.

Covering the dash

auto interior | Posted by admin May 4th, 2010

The dash is covered with a high quality marine artificial leather. After masking off the area it is sprayed with 3M 90 spray adhesive. The material is also sprayed and allowed to dry about 3 minutes. The material is then lowered into place and from the middle it is pressed hard to the dash working outward being carefull not to get any wrinkles or bubbles. The material is stretched over the lip of the top dash and rolled under. Afterward a sharp razor is used to cut away the extra.

Finishing the doors

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin May 2nd, 2010

The Headlight Wells

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin April 25th, 2010

Its Red

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin April 11th, 2010

A month of preparation and 2 days of painting.

Coral Springs Classic Car Show

Uncategorized | Posted by admin March 29th, 2010

Head Room

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin March 29th, 2010

The single biggest problem I have with the GT40 design is the head room. The GT40 was given this destination because the roof height was 40 inches. The Valkyrie is slightly higher but not by much. My 6′1″ body is a bit tall for the car. One solution is the Gurney bubble which many GT40s sport. This bubble over the driver was designed to fit Gurney’s tall frame. I never liked the bubble. I think it kills the cars lines. I wanted a different solution.

The charging port

Electronics | Posted by admin March 29th, 2010

One of the last body modifications was the installing of a charging port. I searched all over for a suitable gas door and compartment to house the charging port which in my case is a 125/250 volt 30 amp plug. I found a VW Passat in the junk yard that had a nice setup. The Passat’s gas portvand door can easily be removed and is all one Peice and not built into the body as most gas doors.

Photos of the car with the back removed

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin January 8th, 2010

With the back removed for some body work, I took some photos of the completed battery configuration.

Interior

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin January 8th, 2010

Photos of the interior as it takes shape.

I am also including work on the arm rests for the doors.

Redoing the backend

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin January 8th, 2010

With the mechanics and electrical work done it’s time to finish off the body. I never really liked how the back end came out. The bumper was too heavy looking. I decided to redo it. So the back was removed and work was started by cutting off the parts I didn’t like and gluing in new foam to form.

Redoing the steering

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin November 29th, 2009

After a few test drives of the car I discovered that there was a major flaw in the steering setup. I had used the components that came with the car and the setup done by the previous owner. He had used a rack and pinion system. The problem is his geometry was all off. The control arms were too short and were causing a bump steer problem. The was also an issue with the angles of the control arms which caused issues in the turn. My solution was to go back to the system shown in the original plans which used a modified Corvair paralelagram steering system with a steering box and pitman arms. I had found a Corvair in the junk yard and had grabbed the whole steering system so I had the parts. I ended up using a Corvette steering box. The geometry of the Corvette box worked better and was stronger.

As I put all the new parts in place I could see the design working out a lot better. The geometry all just worked better. The only downside was I had the do some surgery on the nostrels so the were not as deep to accomidate the steering box.


Andrew McClary
Post From My iPhone

IMG_5035

Dash and in car computer

Electronics | Posted by admin November 29th, 2009

Spent the last four days, between eating turkey, working on the wiring and dash board. You don’t have any idea how much wire runs in a modern car till you wire one yourself. Finished the electric windows, trunk locks, remote door locks, lights, turn signals, and most importantly the touch screen monitor and computer.


Andrew McClary
Post From My iPhone

It’s Alive! The car comes to life.

Uncategorized | Posted by admin October 17th, 2009

After getting ahold of Otmar at Cafe Electric it was determined that the controller hairball (the low voltage controller that all the wired run into) did not have the correct option for running reversing contactors. I sent it back to Cafe Electric and he quickly added the options and got the controler back to me.

With the hairball out, I took the time to rewire a lot of the connections into bundles and run them all into three connectors. This would make removing the hairball easier as well as make it a lot more organized. With the hairball back, it only took me an hour to hook up all the wires from my connectors to the hairball.


I put the system back into the car. I powered it up and turned on the computer. A few moments latter I was checking the setting in the Zilla hairball. Everything confirmed, it was time to turn on the key.

Turning the key I could hear the forward contactor engaging. A further turn of the key to start and the main contactor clicked on as well. The computer was telling me no errors and ready for accelorator input. I slid into the seat and pressed the pedal. With only a slight wine the wheels began to turn. The RPM guage began to climb. It was alive.

Unfortunately it began to rain outside so the car was going to stay in the garage for now. If the weather is good tomorrow it will be time to test it on the street at low speeds.

Andrew McClary
Post From My iPhone

Disappointment

Uncategorized | Posted by admin October 5th, 2009

Well I just got off the phone with Ryan out at EV Source. He has been a great help in providing support to help me with the Zilla. Dispite our efforts and lots of double checking of wiring I am still getting an error that indicates that the motor contactors are not engaging. This excersize has given me a lot more understanding of how the system is supposed to function, but it’s still not working.

I also want to thank my friends and fellow EAA members Matt Graham and Lowell Simmons for looking over my schematics and trying to help me out over the weekend. All the guys at the Gold Coast EAA have been hearing about my progress and assisting me over the past year.

At this point the issue has been passed onto the people at Cafe Electric for support. All of my test data and schematics have been forwarded on and I am waiting to hear from them.

It’s hard to be so close to getting it running after a year of hard work and be stuck.

Hopefully I can get this all worked out this week.

Andrew McClary
Post From My iPhone

Turning it on

Uncategorized | Posted by admin September 27th, 2009

Worked all day tying up loose ends connecting up the last few switches and wires. Hooked up the car computer to the Zilla and got the whole system ready to power up. After doing one last check of all the wiring and making sure no tools were in the battery compartment, the time was here to turn the key. My son and I jacked up the back and put in the jack stand so the rear wheels were off the ground. The front wheels were blocked off.


I turned on the main aux battery power. The Zilla controller came to life with a green light. I pulled up hyperterminal on the computer and hit connect. Moments later I was rewarded by the Zilla giving me a menu. Sucess!


Now time to connect up the battery pack. With my son Andy at the computer it was time to turn on the key and see if the main contactor would engage. I got in the drivers seat and turned the key. There was a click and then a red warning light. The Zilla was registering an error. Shut down.

I looked over the system but didn’t see anything out of place. Time to call a friend. I put in a call to Lowel Simmons and left him a voicemail. A few moments later I got a call from Lowel. He walked me through the setup screens in the Zilla. They were not all set up. Made a few changes and powered up again. Turned the key and click. The main contactor came on line. The computer read 1314 status code. A quick check of the manual confirmed a 1314 code as a ready to go, waiting for the accelorator pedal. All green lights.

I got in the car seat and pressed the pedal. Nothing. Disapointment…and a call to come in for diner. Looks like tomorrow night I begin checking wires.

So close.

Creating an air intake for the controller radiator

Electronics | Posted by admin September 25th, 2009

The Zilla DC motor controller is a liquid cooled system.  It uses a small radiator to cool the coolant which is pumped through the system.  I wantd to create an air intake and duct system to help cool this system.  Though it will also have a small fan, hopefully I won’t need it.

The GT body already had air scoops designed in the body.  One of these was cut out for this use.  A duct then needed to be fabricated to match up to this air intake and transfer air to the square radiator.  This I fabricated out of fiberglass.

Step 1 was to create a cardboard mold. This mold was covered in duct tape and fiberglass cast over the top of it.  Below you can see the mold on the right and the fiberglass peice on the left.

2. Sand the peice and add a little filler to make it look more finished.

3. The radiator is bolted onto the duct.

4.Bolts were fiberglassed into the body to attach the duct over the air scoop.

5.A mount was also fiberglassed in to hold the pump.

The High Voltage Components are Installed

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin September 25th, 2009
The Motor controller

The Motor controller

Once everything was wired on the high voltage board, it was time to install it into the trunk compartment of the car and hook everything up.

Hooked up

Zilla controller access through the trunk

trunk access

Brakes brakes brakes

Uncategorized | Posted by admin August 22nd, 2009

With 12 volt power now running through the car it was time to hook up the vacuum pump and get it working so I could bleed the brakes and get them functioning. I got the system all hooked up. Turning the ignition key flips a relay which powers on the pump. The pump comes on and fills a vacuum tank. Once the correct pressure is obtained a switch turns the pump off. Turning the key for the first time provided the desired result. The vacuum pump came on and about 30 second later shut down.

I got in the car and pressed on the brake pedal. I could feel the booster doing it’s thing. A couple of presses and the pump came on for a few second to restore the vacuum pressure.

Now it was time to check out the system and bleed the brakes. Not a fun task but with the right tools it’s not to hard. A brake bleeding kit consists of a small bottle with a tube into it the mounts via a magnet to the frame. The tube is connected to the bleeder valve on the brake. The valve is opened about one turn. You then pump the brakes making sure the master cylinder resivour if full. After a while you can work the fluid through the line and into the small bottle. You do this till you don’t see any bubbles. Then you tighten up the valve and move to the next wheel. Repeat this process for all four brakes.

All looked good on the back left wheel. Then I noticed that the line was leaking where the back line connected to the proportioning valve. Not good at all. After inspection I found that the connector had gotten screwed in crooked! Damn. I had to take out the whole master cylinder to remove the proportioning valve because the aluminum threads of the valve were now messed up. Time for another trip to the junk yard to find another late model Camero proportioning valve. This also meant a trip to the autoparts store for a new connector. The brakes were not getting done today.

Andrew McClary
Post From My iPhone

And there was light

Uncategorized | Posted by admin August 22nd, 2009

After a break to recover from a surgery to repair an old injury, I got back to work. I picked up where I left off on the car wiring. The 12 volt system was wired in and ignition switch connected in. I now have keys.

The headlights and taillights were then connected. It took a little figuring to get the right wires on the switch but a little time with a multimeter and the switch was wired. The head lights were designed to ground to the frame, so additional wires had to be run since they were mounted in the fiberglass body.

By this time it had gotten dark so it was the perfect time for a test. A turn of the switch and there was light. The car was starting to come to life.


– Post From My iPhone

Wiring Diagrams

Electronics | Posted by admin July 10th, 2009

These are the working drawings of the electronics that I have worked out. They have not been tested yet.

Here are some photos of the connections.

Battery Tie Downs and Linking

Electronics | Posted by admin July 6th, 2009

Now that I had the batteries it was tine to finish up the battery racks and create tie downs for the batteries. Securing the batteries in my mind was the single most important job in making this a safe car. Since the driver sits so low in the car, most of the batteries are sitting right behind the driver. Making sure that the batteries don’t get loose and move forward is important.

I originally had looked at using straps with ratcheted ties. I then looked at metal bands. In the end i used 3/8″ rod and bar steel frames on top.

High Voltage Wiring

Electronics | Posted by admin June 21st, 2009

With the batteries here it’s time to start working on the high voltage wiring. Unlike the normal car power which is 12 volt and grounded to the frame, the high voltage traction power must be isolated. Because of the high amperage all of the wiring will be 2/0 electrical cable.

The first part was to map out where all the batteries are going to go and how the current will be routed. The positive ends need to be next to the negative ends so they can be easily routed with the least amount of wire. 2/0 cable is expensive stuff so measuring well will save money.

The cables all get connected with wiring lugs. These are crimped on with a special hammered crimper. You have to be carefull when you strip the ends not to cut any of the small strands that make up the cable. You also need to be carefull when putting on the lug that all of the strands fit nicely inside. A good wack on the little crimping device with a large hammer makes a good strong joint. The ends are then shrink wrapped with shrink tubing to keep out moisture.

The next step was to look closely at the wiring diagrams provided by Cafe Electric for the Zilla controller. I redrew their diagram to better fit the placement of my components in my car. This excersize also helped in my understanding of the logic and how the system would work. I am going to use two contactors. The main contactor is a Tyco Kilovac. I want to be able to go in reverse without shifting so I am using a special reversing contactor that is actually a dual contactor. This will reverse the field on the motor with the flip of a switch.

Batteries included

Electronics | Posted by admin June 20th, 2009

After a lot of research I decided that the best the best use of the space would be to use a group 31 battery.

Last Saturday at the EAA meeting Lowell Simmons told me about a gentleman up in Melbourne who had a set of 12 Odyssey 12volt 100ah deep cycle batteries for sale. The batteries were purchased by the gentleman for a EV project which unfortunately he would be unable to complete because of illness. The Hawker Odyssey batteries were out of my budget and I am really a few months away from being ready for them, but I thought I would give the man a call and see. This morning I called and we were able to work out a deal. So I drove up to Melbourn with my son to pick them up. My Toyota Previa van was loaded up. At 75 lb each this was 900lbs. The van was heavy but seemed to drive well. All was good till about 4 miles to the exit off the turnpike. The road felt a bit bumpy but a few minutes later we realized it wasn’t the road when one of the rear tires blew out. Not sure if it was the weight, but sure it didnt help. Unloaded some of the batteries and changed the tire, the loaded them back in and made it home safely.

The batteries fit perfectly in the racks I had created. I have room for 4 more batteries if needed. I am going to get the car running on the 12 at 144 volts and see how it performs. If need be I can always add the additional 4 latter.

Wheels

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin May 22nd, 2009

My vision was for the car to have modern looking wheels with 19″ rims and thin tires similiar to a Corvette. A friend has a great set of rims and tires he was willing to sell me that would be perfect. But I quickly ran into problems. Though they were 5 bolt, the bolt pattern was wrong. The Corvair has a 5 bolt 4.75″ pattern and even though these had come off a Pontiac, they were a 410mm. Further checking, and learning turned up that the Corvair suspension is designed for a 4.5″ back spacing and 0 offset. Most cool new rims are 7.5″ back spacing and a 55mm offset. (not sure why offset always seems to be specified in metric and backspacing in inches).

I have looked at wheels that would fit this backspacing and most look vintage. I really would like the wheels to look more modern. They do make adapters but I have heard mixed advice on using these. Though my friends Porsche came from the factory with spacers already installed so they can’t be all bad. But they do have to be machined right.

The Trunk

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin May 22nd, 2009

I needed a good dry place to put all of the high voltage components. This includes the Zilla controller, the main contactors, the DC to DC converter, and the charger. The most logical place was in the rear of the car. There isn’t a trunk but there was a nice area just behind the rear suspension that was empty. I decided I would fiberglass in this area with and make a hatch to access it. It would be water tight and away from any road dirt. As an added bonus if done right I might even have enough space to store a small bag or brief case.

The project started by cutting out the hatch with a dremel reinforced cutting wheel being very carefull to make clean straight lines. This was going to be very visible so it needed to be clean looking.

Foam was glued to the inside of the opening to form a lip. Once dried I used a dremel sanding drum to carve out a shape in the lip that would allow for a rubber seal as well as as a trough to carry away any water that came in. This was then fiberglassed.

The floor of the trunk was formed with foam and fiberglassed as well.

The arm rests

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin May 21st, 2009

The valkyrie kit only comes with a flat fiberglass door pannel for the inside of the door. No arm rest or space for any storage or speakers like modern cars. I needed to create an armrest that would serve as a handle to close the door as well as create some sort of pocket to hold my sunglasses or other small articles.

I started with a couple of peices of foam and my cabinet makers saw and began sculpting. After numerous times in and out of the car to test I had two mirrored rough shapes. One for each side. Using 80 grit sand paper these were further shaped. The final pass was with 120 grit to make them smooth. These then got two layers of fiberglass. Holes were made for the electric window switches and a switch to open the door itself. (The car has shaved doors. There is an emergency handle at the bottom of the seat but the main latch is triggered electronically.)

Installing the electronics

Electronics | Posted by admin April 18th, 2009

The battery racks

Electronics | Posted by admin April 9th, 2009

The motor goes in

Electronics | Posted by admin April 5th, 2009

The Warp 9 motor is lowered into the car for the first time.

It took taking it in and out a few times and making adjustments to the motor mount rails to get the motor perfectly lined up.


The motor is in place and lines up with the shaft.  Angle Iron is cut and drilled to bolt into the motor face.  Once the coupler arrives and everything fits, holes will be drilled and these brackets will be bolted in place.

Here the coupler is in place.

A close up of the great bracket that Lowell Simmons machined for me.  I met Lowell at the Florida EAA (Electric Auto Association) and he has been a great resource.  He teaches a shop class to some local high school kids and has them doing electric conversions on cars and even drag racing them.  One of his kids recent projects, a Porsche,  was faster off the line than a Tessla at the 2009 Battery Beach Burnout.   Its going to be interesting to see what his students end up building once they graduate.

This end  is actually my old clutch plate machined down and inserted in.  Great job.

With the coupler in place, the rest of the bracket was fabricated, painted, and bolted in place.

The wires on the motor were rigged up to test the motor.  (These will be replaced with larger cable before the car is running on full battery pack.) The motor was tested by hooking a 12 volt battery directly to the motor with the car up on jack stands.  Everything ran great and had a really cool electric whine.  Can’t wait to get the whole traction battery pack installed with the Zilla controller.

Reshaping the tail end

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin March 25th, 2009

The original Valkyrie had a rounded back end. This rounded shape was by far the worst part of the car. The best discription I have for it was a “duck ass”. It has to go. The plan is to widen the back, lessen the curve, add a bumper, and skirts over the wheel wells.

Out of the garage

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin March 23rd, 2009

Electric vacuum pump for brakes

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin March 15th, 2009

The car is outfitted with power brakes. Since there isn’t an engine to provide a vacuum, an electrical vacuum pump is being used. This feeds into a resivour to hold enough pressure for multiple brakings. A pressure switch turns the unit on if the pressure drops below what it needed.

Worried About Cost and Emissions of Charging Plug-In Hybrids and Electric Cars?

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin March 10th, 2009

Click here to see Original Post

EarthTalk is a Q&A column from E/The Environmental Magazine

Dear EarthTalk: If you have an electric or plug-in hybrid car, you’re paying for electricity rather than gasoline. How does that cost compare to a gas-powered car? And since the electricity may be generated from some other polluting source, is it really better for the environment? – Kevin DeMarco, Milford, Connecticut

When you compare battery to gasoline power, electricity wins hands down. A 2007 study by the non-profit Electric Power Research Institute (EPRI) calculated that powering a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) would cost the equivalent of roughly 75 cents per gallon of gasoline — a price not seen at the pump for 30 years.

The calculation was made using an average cost of electricity of 8.5 cents per kilowatt hour and the estimated distance the car would travel on one charge, versus a car that gets 25 miles per gallon and is powered by $3 per gallon gasoline. Change any of those variables and the relative costs change. For example, substituting a car that gets 50 miles per gallon doubles the comparative electrical cost (though it still works out much cheaper than gasoline). On the other hand, in some areas where wind or hydropower is wasted at night — likely when the PHEV would be charging — the utility might drop the kilowatt hour cost to two to three cents, making the charge much less costly.

And don’t worry that we’ll run out of electrical power: A 2005 study by the U.S. Department of Energy’s Pacific Northwest National Laboratory estimated that three-quarters of the country’s current small vehicle fleet could be charged by our existing electrical grid without building new power plants. (And if all those cars were replaced by PHEVs, it would eliminate the need for 6.5 billion barrels of oil per day, or 52 percent of current U.S. oil imports.)

Regarding environmental impact, charging up your car with electricity from the grid also wins handily over filling up at the gas station. In the most comprehensive PHEV study to date, released in 2007 by EPRI and the non-profit Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC), results predict that all greenhouse gases will be reduced as PHEVs begin to penetrate the car market. Estimated cumulative greenhouse gas reductions from 2010 to 2050, depending upon how fast PHEVs take hold, range from 3.4 to 10.3 billion tons.

More than one half of our national energy grid is powered by coal, and in areas where PHEVs are charged through coal-provided electricity, says NRDC, there is the possibility of increased levels of soot and mercury emissions. However, charging up can be much less of a guilt-ridden affair where cleaner electrical sources like wind and solar are available. The website HybridCars.com points out that as more power plants are required to develop green power and emit fewer greenhouse gases, the environmental and health benefits will further increase.

GOT AN ENVIRONMENTAL QUESTION? Send it to: EarthTalk, c/o E/The Environmental Magazine, P.O. Box 5098, Westport, CT 06881; submit it here or via e-mail. Read past columns here.

Parts For Sale

Uncategorized | Posted by admin March 9th, 2009

Parts For Sale

Mustang or Falcon door handles

$10 plus shipping


These handles are in good condition but should be re-chromed for show quality.

1968 Ford LTD 4 Door Side Front Side Glass – left and right. Perfect for use on a Fiberfab Valkyrie. In perfect condition.

SOLD


Ford Mustang Side windows – Perfect for use in a Fiberfab Valkyrie
SOLD


VW Gia regulators and glass clips.
$65 plus shipping
SOLD

Door hinge set taken off a Fiberfab Valyrie – were replaced with Lambo hinges.

SOLD

Battery Beach Burnout 2009

Uncategorized | Posted by admin February 21st, 2009

It was a great day for the annual Florida Electric Auto Associations Battery Beach Burnout.  Electric and hybrid vehicles from all over showed up for the event.  From a 1920 Milburn Electric car (yes, there were electric cars in 1920) to the 2008 Telsa Roadster, the show showcased the viability of electric vehicles.  

I have worked hard over the past month to try to get my EVGT40 running to take to the show, but it just wasn’t to be.  This didn’t put a damper on my day though because there was a lot to see.

This young man proudly showed me the car that his high school class has been working on.  It is young minds like these who hopefully will further the use electric cars.

This was another student project, a hybrid racer.

This company was at the show demonstrating a public charging station that they are trying to deploy in locations across the nation.  Users sign up on the internet and recieve a bar coded card which the system scans.  Once the user plugs in thier car and the system reads a secure connection, power is supplied.  When the car is charged a text message is sent to the users cell phone.  Should the connection be interupted the user is also notified.

This 1920 Milburn electric car is owned by a gentleman in Winter Garden, Florida.  Build in Ohio, there are only 35 still in exsistence today.  Though it now holds more modern lead acid batteries, it still runs off of a General Electric motor which was installed in 1920.  The Milburn Electric car company was purchased by General Motors in 1923 and the cars production was stopped.  For more history on the Milburn Electric Car go to http://www.milburn.us/history.htm.

An Electric DeLorean complete with a box waiting for the “Flux Capacitor” to be invented to power it into the future.  All kidding aside this was a very nice conversion and demonstrated its speed on the road coarse.

A 2008 Tesla roadster was one of the stars of the show.  With a price tag over $125,000 it is the super car of electrics.  Made almost entirely of carbon fiber the car is lightweight and fast.  Boasting a 200 mile range on a 3 hour charge, this car demonstrates where the technology is going.  It truly is a work of art.

Side windows – one peice

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin February 13th, 2009

After installing on set of the originally designed windows I decided I wanted something that looked more modern. I was able to find someone who had a set that was designed for a Valkyrie. Mine is a earlier model than the ones they were designed for so like a lot of things, modifications were going to have to be made.

The regulators are off of a Mazda.

The Zilla Controller Arrived

Electronics | Posted by admin February 5th, 2009

The Zilla 1K HV arrived yesterday. I spent the evening reading through the manual. It is a neat little peice of electronics.

Shelby announces the Aero EV

technology | Posted by admin January 28th, 2009

Shelby, the maker or Ford super cars has announced the Aero EV which it claims will do 0-60 in 2.5 seconds. More importantly the battery pack will charge in 10 minutes and have a 150 mile range.

Shelby Aero EV

Shelby Aero EV

For the full story click here.

Lambo Doors

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin January 25th, 2009

Putting lambo style doors on the car has nothing to do with any function of the electric car, but in the eyes of my sons “it’s just cool Dad and you have to do it”. After returning from the Palm Beach Super Car Show last week, where all the coolest cars had lambo doors, the decision was made. I found a pair of hinges on eBay for $250. Just like about every peice on this car they were going to have to be modified.

The lambo door hinges had to be shortened to fit in the tight space of the Valkyries doors. I also didn’t like how high they lifted the doors so I modified them further to lift the door up to 85 degrees. This also meant changing the gas struts that would hold the door up. I consulted my father in law, an engineer, on the math for figuring out how strong a strut was needed. Based on a 40lbs door, I was going to need at least 70lbs. of lift to hold the door up.



parts held in place ready for welding

The modified hinge with the gas strut.  I ended up having to replace this gas lift strut with a lighter weight one as well as longer so the hinge would lift to 90 degrees.


This is a shot of the original hinges in the door.

The holes here have been  filled in and the wall reinforced.  The outer area against the fender was enlarged.

Holes had to be cut into the wheel well to make room for the hinges.  This will have to have a box fiver glassed over it later.


Here the holes for the old hinges has been filled in with body filler and sanded and primed.

The door swings out just a bit and then swings upward.

Here you can see how the door swings out just enough to clear the body.

The dash board

Electronics | Posted by admin January 21st, 2009

The Zilla Controller

technology | Posted by admin January 15th, 2009

Big news came today. Evsource.com emailed me today that my controler is about to ship. The Zilla 1k is a hard to get peice of hardware that is the brains of the car. Though there are other controllers out there, none have the capability of the Zilla controller especially for a DC motor powered sports car.

It’s time to get busy. There is a lot to do to get ready for the controllers arrival. With the brains of the car showing up a moving car isn’t far off in the future. Tonight I study the schematics and start working out the electrical design.

Tail section locks

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin January 12th, 2009

The tail section hinges at the rear allowing the section to tilt up for access. This section must be latched very securely. The Ford GT team lost one of it’s members years ago in a race when the tail section popped up during a race, so securing it is important.

The latches are trunk latches from two Cadilac Eldorados. The advantage of these is that once latched, a motor pulls the two parts in very tight. They are also triggered electrically so I can easily run wires up to the front dash.

The motor mount

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin January 12th, 2009

Fabrication of the motor mount for the Warp 9 electric motor.

This mount replaces the clutch bell housing and keeps the motor in line with the drive shaft. The motor will sit in this frame and be strapped in. There is a face plate which the motor also bolts into which will be welded in place once the motor is connected to the shaft and the alignment is perfect.

Florida EAA January meeting

Research | Posted by admin January 10th, 2009

Some photos from January’s EAA meeting.

GT 40 Reference Photos

Restoring and Building | Posted by admin December 31st, 2008

Following are photos of the Ford GT40 that this car is modeled after. The Valkyrie used the 1960’s GT as it’s model, the following are some shots of what I believe is a 2003 Ford GT40. Ford made a lot of improvements especially in the way of comfort. As I complete my EV-GT I plan on modeling it as much as I can on this model.

EAA Meeting and Park Vista Car Show

Research | Posted by admin December 13th, 2008

One of the best ways to get good information is visiting a local chapter of the Electric Auto Association. I am real lucky that there is a real active group right in my back yard. Today I spent the day attending a meeting in the morning the joining some of the guys who already had running electric conversions at a local car show.

(I didn’t take enough notes at the show, so if any of the guys from the Florida EAA can drop me a note with more info on these cars, I will gladly update this page.)

This 240SX had its maiden voyage to the show.  Done by Charlie at Vintage Voltage.

This Porsche is actually a high school project.  A really nice conversion that has also been a race car.

Shawn’s really cool electric motorcycle.

This Electric truck was done by Al Lococo in Winter Haven, FL.  He has a nice website with lots of details.  Click here to see his site.

Al used the same method that I was going to do to mate the Warp 9 to the transmission.  He had a problem with the system when one of the springs failed.  After talking to a couple of other guys at the show I think I am going to rethink how this is done and eliminate the clutch plate.

These cars were not electrics, but were very cool cars.  I liked the clean electronic dashboard on this hotrod.

I was lucky enough to find a new Ford GT40 at the show.  Unfortunately the guy was just about to leave when I got there so I didn’t get a chance to really look over the details in the car.  This was a shame.  It might have given me some good ideas on how to finish out my car.